Welcome to the first e-book edition of Makansutra Food Guide Singapore, our 11th Edition since 1998. This time around, we are distributing it absolutely free and we are totally not kidding! After 24 years, we are still tracking the best in heritage, traditional and hawker street food fare. This e-book is designed with user friendly touches. You can flip it like book, click on and jump to the relevant category or page, and it has actual photos of the eatery plus short videos too. This inaugural list of about 400 will grow even as you are reading this. We are revisiting many once Makansutra- rated hawkers and eateries to get the new truth out from them that is relevant for today’s foodies.
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Quote page
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Foreword by KF Seetoh
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who we are
who we are Makansutra was founded by KF Seetoh, a
the Singapore food culture Makansutra was founded by KF Seetoh, a photojournalist who thought he was a food guru (or vice versa) in 1997. He photographed, ate, and wrote his way into food guides and TV and radio shows on local, cable Discovery, and Netflix and created midnight food tours, the World Street Food Congress and even set up Singapore hawkers in Urban Hawker, Times Square, New York in 2022. Makansutra under his wild thinking, is like an advocate now, for all things humble and meaningfully delicious and all the attendant possibilities that it can realize. Find him on socials #kfseetoh, #makansutra
photojournalist who thought he was a food guru (or vice versa) in 1997. He photographed, ate, and wrote his way into food guides and TV and radio shows on local, cable Discovery, and Netflix and created midnight food tours, the World Street Food Congress and even set up Singapore hawkers in Urban Hawker, Times Square, New York in 2022. Makansutra under his wild thinking, is like an advocate now, for all things humble and meaningfully delicious and all the attendant possibilities that it can realize. Find him on socials #kfseetoh, #makansutra
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what this e-book is all about It’s a hawker and street food guide and you and I know no food guide is authoritative, even us. But we’ve been inking and pixeling it since 1998 and we kinda know a bit of stuff. We killed tons of trees once ago just for the old paperback guides but now, we pixelise them and eliminated carbon footprint to deliver it.
So this ebook is about eating experiences - sutra to makan (eating) and we have about 500 listings to tell you what and where are the better and best ones, in our words. Be warned, this ebook hawker guide will take you to places you can't even pronounce like Bras Basah (you pronounce the S too) and Senja, and chomp on national deliciousness you can’t even fathom- think stink beans sambal prawns (yes, it’s a thing) and fish head curry (don’t ask us what they do with the rest of the red snapper!)
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how to use this ebook
how to use this ebook
If you’ve got less than a week in Singapore
There are over 120 categories and it’s not extensive, believe us, we are still discovering after 26 years! You click on anything in the list you fancy or are curious about and we take you to the section, first explaining what the dish is then telling you where, why, and how to get there, via a Google map link. Just tap and gooooo! You’ll find flavours that are old school migrant fare, iconic local stuff, neither migrant nor native, which is borne of pure inventiveness and desperation of that generation that built this city AND modern interpretation of retro goodness, like roti prata egg benedict (at Springleaf Prata Place) and nasi padang donburi in Tamchiak Kopitiam. Take no hostages and fear nothing in the guide, no hawker is out to sell you stuff they can’t defend or dislike. Just finger this guide to this Unesco-awarded and recognized hawker food city or just flip about and eat like you won’t know when you’re gonna be back. You’ll also find some listings that are Muslim friendly, owned and operated by Muslims or are Halal, and even vegetarian and vegan (note, Singapore is not big on these).
There are over 500 listings and over 100 categories in this e-book. It’s quite daunting for a short trip visitor or traveler. The “Two Good you Die Die must try “section is just for you. We’ve picked the best, most popular across many famous categories. You sift through these 36 Ultimate listings across our Chinese, Malay, Indian, Nonya, Eurasian in both heritage and modern expressions. Click on the map and get there. Click here for the Two Good you Die Die Must Try section
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table of contents
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Food Photos Categories By Food Type – (Click to Go)
Photo category
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Asian Desserts
Abacus Seeds
Appam
Ang Ku Kueh (Red Tortoise Cake)
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Bak Chang (Rice Dumplings)
Bak Chor Mee (Minced Meat Noodles)
Bak Kut Teh (Pork Ribs Soup)
Bak Kwa (Barbequed Meat Slices)
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Beef Ball Bee Hoon
Beef Kway Teow / Noodles
Ban Mian
Bebek Goreng
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Cantonese Restaurant
Bread
Beverages & Juices
Black Vinegar Trotters
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Cantonese Roast
Chapati
Chai Tow Kway (Fried Carrot Cake)
Chap Chye Png (Economy Rice)
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Chee Cheong Fun
Char Kway Teow
Chicken Curry
Chicken Noodles
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Chinese Regional
Chicken Wings (BBQ)
Chicken Rice
Chili Crab
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Chwee Jia Bao (Crystal Dumplings)
Chwee Kueh (Water Rice Cake)
Claypot Rice
Coffee
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Curry Mee / Noodles
Crab Bee Hoon
Curry Rice
Curry Puff
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Epok Epok
Dian Xin / Dim Sum
Duck / Goose (Stewed) Rice, Porridge & Noodles
Cze Cha (Cook & Fry)
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Eurasian / Peranakan / Nonya
Fish Ball Noodles / Mee Poh Tah
Fish Head Curry
Fish Head Bee Hoon
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Fried Bee Hoon & Fried Chicken Wings
Fish (Seafood) Soup / Fish (Seafood) Porridge
Fried Hokkien Mee
Fish Head Steamboat
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Hor Fun
Hum Chim Beng / You Char Kway / Jian Dui
Goreng Pisang (Banana Fritters)
Hamburgers
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Ipoh Hor Fun
Indian
Kacang Pool
Japanese Food
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Kentang Bola / Potato Ball
Kiam Chye Ark (Salted Vegetables & Duck Soup)
Korean Street Food
Kaya
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Laksa
Lor Mee
Lontong / Lontong Goreng
Kway Chap
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Mee Goreng
Mee Siam
Mee Chang Kueh
Mee Rebus
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Mee Sua
Mutton Soup (Chinese Style)
Nasi Biryani
Nasi Ayam Penyet
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Nasi Goreng
Nasi Lemak
Nasi Padang, Nasi Melayu & Nasi Ambeng
Nasi Kerabu
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Nasi Ulam
Or Luak / Or Jian (Fried Oyster Egg)
Ngoh Hiang
Pakistani
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Pastries, Cakes & Desserts
Popiah
Pork Soup
Pasta
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Rojak / Grilled Cuttlefish
Porridge / Rice Porridge
Prawn Mee / Noodles
Putu Piring
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Satay
Sang Mee
Roti Prata
Roti John
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Satay Lok Lok / Steamboat
Satay Bee Hoon
Seafood / Shellfish
Snacks, Crackers & Crisps
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Soya Bean Curd / Jelly / Milk
Soto Ayam
Social Enterprise
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Sup Tulang
Steamboat
Tapioca Cake
Stew & Braise
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Teochew / Hokkien/ Cantonese Piah
Tahu Goreng / Tahu Telor
Tau Kwa Pau
Teochew Delicacy
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Teochew Kueh
Teochew Porridge
Teochew Restaurant
Thai Food
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Wanton Mee
Vegetarian
Vadai (Prawn Version)
Turtle / Terrapin Soup
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Western Food (Street Style)
Yong Tau Foo
Yakitori
Yam / Radish / Pumpkin Cake
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Abac us Seeds
Photo taken by Makansutra
Yam flour cakes shaped to look like abacus seeds and fried with dried shrimps, mushrooms, and minced pork. A Hakka delicacy from Guangdong, China. Hakka people are a migratory tribe who went into exile after the Mongols conquered China. Some went further afar and migrated to sunny Singapore, bringing along their cuisine
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Madam Yam
Instagram: @Madam.yam
This is a people pleaser version- even for those who baulk at the taste of tubers like yam. The yam-y taste is tame and mixed nicely with starch and seasoning before it's steamed or boiled. The best part comes from the decadent amount of ingredients folded into these yam gnocchis. Every piece is surrounded by dried shrimps, mushroom strips, dried cuttlefish or dried scallops (depends on your order), bean curd (Taukwa) and minced pork. The crispy shallots and the sharp tangy chilli provided is an added blessing.
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Ang Ku Kueh
Photo taken by Makansutra
These are moulded and steamed red glutinous rice flour cakes with bean or peanut paste presented on a banana leaf. The Nonya red tortoise shell-shaped cakes are believed to bring longevity and good fortune to those who are eating them. They are specially prepared during important festivals such as Chinese New Year and baby showers.
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Ji Xiang Confectionery
Blk 1, Everton Park #01-33 (Map) https://jixiangconfectionery.com.sg/ 7am - 7pm Daily
They are still the one to beat in our books. The skin is thin and the fillings are bold and generous and they use a lot less sugar these days. A newer generation has taken over from the father Mr Toh, and all the old school hand labour and manual effort behind their kuehs are still intact. Aside from the usual red skinned versions, they offer a colourful range (purple, green, grey and even yellow) that is filled with flavours that appeal to the local palate, like coffee, yam (orh nee), salted mung bean, durian and even sweet corn. The peanut version is dense and has a lovely contrast to the smooth soft and thin glutinous skin.
(Click to watch video)
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Poh Cheu Soon Kueh Blk 127 Bukit Merah Lane 1 #01-222 (Map) https://pohcheu.oddle.me/en_SG/ 8am - 6pm Mon & Sun
Their queues were even longer during the Covid season not just because it's so well made (a huge gang in the naked kitchen are toiling away in the stall each day). It's because many like to buy these bites that can hold and be enjoyed again the next day (we suggest a mild microwaving). They have a huge range of flavours and colours too, from the traditional red and mung bean ones to local favourites like coffee, coconut, mango and even durian flavours. The all-important skin is thin and not so sticky-in-the-mouth. The fillings are generous and they come as fresh as it can be. they now have another outlet at the other end of the block and the same manual labour of love is still behind each of the kueh.
(Click to watch video)
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Appam
Photo taken by Makansutra
Using a combination of the simplest ingredients – sugar, egg,coconut milk, and rice flour – the Indians have breathed life into this pan-fried sweet crepe. It’s crispy around the edges, thick and fluffy in the centre. They come served with orange sugar, curry, dahl, and even a runny egg in the middle
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Heavens
Blk 20 Ghim Moh Rd #01-26, Ghim Moh Mkt & Food Ctr (Map) 6am – 1pm Mon
We rate only this anchor outlet as many of their chain outlets came undone. It began with the mother and the amount of work done for each appam you order, is what makes thiers stand out, done fresh, one by one. Although transient staff (a manpower issue in Singapore) may deliver inconsistent results from time to time, this is still among the better appam with the legion of fans. The edges of the appam come nicely crispy and has a thicker centre, and a touch of coconut milk in the batter lends a richness to the bite. You can add cheese or runny egg (sometimes not so runny) or plain jane versions. The son now helms the business and rest assured; this heritage snack is not about to disappear any time soon. They also offer a range of old school dosai which is popular at breakfast.
Click to watch video)
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Rahmath Cheese Prata
Blk 74 Toa Payoh Lor 4 #01-08, Toa Payoh Vista Hawker Ctr (Map) 6am - 2pm Mon
Don’t let the stall name fool you. Although they specialise in some mean roti prata and fancy renditions, it's the appam you come here for also. It is just one item on the menu and it has not fancy toppings with it. They come is a set of two and it is huge- very filling, with the attendant crispy edges and fluffy soft middle with a wistful touch of coconut milk in the batter.
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Asian Desserts
Photo taken by Makansutra
Using a combination of the simplest ingredients – sugar, egg,coconut milk, and rice flour – the Indians have breathed life into this pan-fried sweet crepe. It’s crispy around the edges, thick and fluffy in the centre. They come served with orange sugar, curry, dahl, and even a runny egg in the middle.
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115 Tang Shui
335 Smith St #02-206, Chinatown Cplx Food Ctr (Map) 7am - 4pm Mon & Tue
the couple manning it is coming of age but, the still getting the nuts and beans over the museum looking piece of stone grinder at the back of the kitchen. A powdered dessert salesman come a calling once and left after being introduced to the stone relic. He had a bowl of the dessert before heading off, impressed. Their fan favourites include black sesame, walnut, almond, peanut and their red bean has a lovely hint of dried mandarin peel. We like the black and white combo (in the name of Michael Jackson) of black sesame and almond cream. Their bob cha cha uses glula melaka and the richness comes shining through. Their son tried for a season to helm and inherit the business but faltering footfall for this kind of old school sweets and lack of manpower to aid him along was detrimental to his plans.
(Click to watch video)
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75 Peanut Soup
1 Kadayanallur Street #01-57, Maxwell Food Centre (Map) 7.30am - 4pm Sun
Mr Peh Cheng Giap is the third generation in his family helming this stall and he's getting on in age, we seen him a work over the decades and the speed. shows. But it's still made, old fashioned hand work style by boiling them in pots at the back of the stall (though he uses a huge electric boiler non). When you first tear into their peanut soup, you can sense they cooked it till it turns soft, almost creamy and disintegrates in the mouth upon first bite. They now use a lot less sugar than we first knew. It is so easy in, especially when had with the hard-hitting hawker fare in this famous food centre. The other favourite of ours is the red bean soup, cook till smooth and soft with bits of sago and lotus seed and perfumed by some dried tangerine peel- and old school secret.
AR Rahman Café
665 Buffalo Rd #01-247, Tekka Mkt & Food Ctr (Map) 7am - 10.30pm Daily
This one has a difference but yet draws the same love, it is Indian in style and not like many others here. They use crushed, not shaved ice and it delivers a lovable crunchy texture on the way in. They too, are easy on the sugar quotient these days. When you let this sit, it turns into a coconut milky Chendol with soft chendol pandan jelly and sweet red bean drink with bits of crushed iced- very similar to the Indian versions in Penang. The milky coconut intensity is light and makes it so drinkable.
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Cendol Geylang Serai 1 Geylang Serai #02-107,
Geylang Serai Mkt & Food Ctr (Map) Mon: 9am - 3pm, Tue-Fri: 9am - 5pm Sat & Sun: 9am - 4pm
This is a specialty stall in the area and there is a short, fast and consistent line of customers. Two huge speakers blast out latest hits and a big sign “No Red Beans” stares at you up front and centre of the stall. This is the original version with soft shaved ice, so don’t harass them for “strange” extra toppings like attap chee or palm fruit. The jelly is pale green and has a soft luscious texture wiht hints of pandan and again the balance of the rich coconut milk and palm sugar sweetness is very well tempered to suit an evolved local palate.
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Four Seasons Ching Teng 210 Lor 8 Toa Payoh
#01-34 (Map) 8am – 11pm
For a little chain, this stall does it quite consistently well as their operations is very thought out of. The ingredients, including white fungus, sugared melon strips with pang tai hai (black malva nut), dried longan etc... and served with crushed not shaved ice, for the adorable icy crunch, so lovable on a hot day. The rock sugar used lends a smooth and light sweetness and the product is quite consistent throughout almost every stall we tried. google the to check their various outlets around the country.
(Click to watch video)
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No Name Dessert
69 Bedok South Ave 3 #01-490 (Map) 1pm – 7pm/7.30pm Mon
If you count, you will see up to 11 ingredients used in this humble cold soup dessert (or warm version) and each item is specially pre-cooked for texture and flavours before being immersed in the rock sugar laden fruity broth. There's candied persimmon, snow fungus, longan, dried fruits, etc. One other magic is that they use crushed instead of shaved ice so there's icy pebble textures when you slurp in.
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Nyonya Chendol
51 Old Airport Rd #01-115, Old Airport Rd Hawker Ctr (Map) 9.30am – 9.30pm Mon
When they do it well, it is one of the best around but we felt their bugbear is consistency. The gula Melaka is rich and smooth, fresh coconut milk is used, the shaved ice is soft and melts upon contact in the mouth and the chendol jelly, is soft yet has a gentle texture to the bite. You can request (separately) for extra toppings like sweet and soft red beans or attap chee (palm fruit). but of late, since we checked a few outlets int 2024, they seem to have it down pat, with minor inconsistencies. Check online for the various outlets in and around town.
(Click to watch video)
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Old Amoy Chendol 335 Smith St, #02-008,
Chinatown Cplx Food Ctr (Map) 10.30am - 6pm Sun
A new generation hawker recalled his family’s old recipe and decided to continue where they left off decades ago. It’s a simple operation with a not-so-simple recipe. The chendol or pandan mung bean flour jelly is soft with wistful hints of pandan and is spooned atop the little mount of shaved ice (soft and snowy) and slathered with a fine grade gula melaka (done nicely with no hints of back-of-palate sourness). They specialise in just this and they have a few outlets, but our review is centred on this original and flagship stall in Chinatown hawker centre.
(Click to watch video)
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Tian Yi Dessert
861 North Bridge Road #01-112, North Bridge Food Centre(Map) 8.30am – 4pm Daily
The pots of various bean, fruits and fungus desserts are done fresh and on the go daily. They are very generous in the flavour and ingredients department. The use of gula melaka or palm sugar is an indication they don't cut corners. The Bubur Cha Cha comes rich and brown in colour (no white sugar used) and it's redolent with ingredients like tubers and mochi jelly cubes. The Bubur Terigu has soft wheat grains simmered in the coconutty and gula broth. Very rarely do we find dried tangerine peel confidently infused into red bean stews, but they do so here and it is very moreish and so old school and they include bits of longan and red dates. They also have "8 Treasures" bowl, which has so many beans, fruits nuts all simmered and mixed into that one all-in bowl of lightly sweet goodness. , and best to add extra little blocks of sweet potatoes in to fill up if you need to.
(Click to watch video)
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Uncle Rabbit Jelly House Blk 85C Toa Payoh Lor 4 #01-376 (Map) 9am – 6pm Daily
They simply take all the local favourite sweets and turned it into agar agar jelly and a very pretty rendition indeed. The display shelf when full, has a wide range of beloved local dessert jellies like Chendol (the star item), just chendol jelly with red beans and a layer of coconut milk jelly atop. The Bandung agar agar is also a top seller- the aroma of the rose syrup shines through gently and they render this lapis, or stripey, multi layered style, with a thin film of translucent jelly between. The Coffee jelly is also made lapis style- coffee, milk, repeat. Overall, the sweetness of the jellies is tamed and tampered to suit local expectations and that allows the flavours to shine through. Such a no -brainer sweetish cold snack when you are peckish.
(Click to watch video)
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Xi Le Teng Blk 118 Commonwealth Cres #02-70, Commonwealth Cres Food Ctr (Map) 10am - 2pm Mon, Tue & Wed
A very traditional old school Chinese dessert stall. The feisty little old lady just cooks pots upon pots of her specialty (had been so for decades) and serves it up like she knows how. Her crowd favourite is the bubur terigu (white wheat in coconut milk and palm sugar). It's boiled for hours till they come soft (almost disintegrating) and in a thick and rich coconutty broth. You add a spoon of coconut milk over to max the sensation. Also popular is her green bean soup with hints of pandan and this one is just so simply and perfectly well done. Do not pass up on her cheng tng (clear sweet broth with nuts, beans, dried fruits and fungus). The sweet soup is done by boiling with dried honeyed longan and rock sugar. Have it cold on a hot day or vice versa and you'll realise the efficacy of the traditional dessert.
(Click to watch video)
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Ye Lai Xiang Hot & Cold Cheng Tng Blk 1 Bedok Rd Stall 31, Bedok Corner Food Ctr (Map) 9.30am – 7pm Mon & Tue
They sell just this one item and the pride and confidence this family has in this sweet soup dessert is rightly earned. They have been selling this for decades. The whole transparent bowl of goodness comes laden with all-time classic favourites like candied persimmon slices, sweet potatoes, dried and fresh longans, sago balls, snow fungus, barley, candied winter melon strips and pang tai hai (malva nut) plus soft boiled mung beans. This is so refreshing and they use crushed instead of shaved ice, and the fruity and less sweet broth is a true pick-me-up.
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Bak Chang (Rice Dumplings) CE DUMPLINGS)
Photo taken by Makansutra
Once a festival (Dragon Boat) delicacy, these triangular leaves wrapped parcels steamed rice dumpling is now readily available throughout the year. The Hokkien version is stuffed with fatty pork, mushrooms and chestnuts, while the Cantonese add red and mung beans. The Peranakan do a sweeter version infused with sugared melons and coriander.
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Hiong Kee Dumplings 531A Upper Cross St #02-37,
Hong Lim Mkt & Food Ctr (Map) 9am – 6pm Sun
Two huge stainless-steel pots are just bubbling away with hundreds of these gorgeous dumplings every day. They are wrapped so tightly and come larger than most, and the aroma of the bamboo and pandan leaves they use permeate the stall and it’s alluring for bak chang fans. The popular rendition here is the salty pork dumpling, stuffed with braised pork, chestnuts, mushroom and salted egg inside those glutinous rice parcel (they have a fatty pork version, if that floats your boat). If pork is not your thing, try their chicken version, with mushroom, salted egg and chestnuts too. Each dumpling is steamed very well, and you won't bite into "chao-bee" or runaway hard undercooked grains that irritate. For lighter versions, tear into their kee chang (plain alkaline glutinous rice dumplings) or one that's filled with red bean paste. Very comforting.
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Bak Chor Mee (Minced Meat Noodles) (MINCED MEAT NOODLES)
Photo taken by Makansutra
The Original bak chor mee hails from Southern China. It is a bowl of soupy egg noodles with minced meat and dumplings in it. The migrants in Singapore then gave it a spin by having it not just the original soupy version, but also in a dry sambal and vinegar sauce rendition- with pork slices, dumplings, mushrooms, minced meat, pork balls and often with a piece of teepo, crispy fried, dried sole fish bones.
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Famous Eunos Bak Chor Mee
Blk 7 Eunos Crescent, Hong Lee Coffeeshop (Map) 6am – 7.30pm Daily
Ler Jie Wei is a fifth generation hawker offering the traditional soup style bak chor mee, and in honour of his great great grandfather, 陈联福 (Chen Lian Fu) who founded the stall in 1920s. There are now over a dozen stalls in Singapore serving this style of bak chor mee either by descendants of the family line, or former workers. It's a simple, humble old school dish that pack layers of umami savoury flavours with springy noodles like a good Japanese ramen. The fresh minced pork below is blanched with pork bone soup laced with tee poh (grounded dried sole fish boned), followed by the softly crunchy noodles, wantons filled with minced pork and more tee poh and then topped with lard and lard croutons. You add fish sauce if you like, with dashes of , vinegar, stall made fried shallot, and aromatic shallot oil to take it to the next level. If you want a “dry” chilli version, they also serve the noodles tossed in their excellent stall made sambal.
High Street Tai Wah Pork Noodle 531A Upper Cross St #02-16, Hong Lim Mkt & Food Ctr (Map) 7am – 2.30pm Mon
This is the brother of Tai Hwa (see the subtle name difference) and they hold up that great tradition in no less a way. The subtle difference in taste is noticeable only to the aficionados and the hard-core regulars. Their black vinegar sambal has more of an umami edge and hence calmer (which some like) and their dumplings are meaty, crunchy and very moreish. The noodle employs a not-so-easy-to-learn blanch and flick technique. The liquid flies off the blancher leaving just enough moisture to marry up with the sambal vinegar sauce. The third generation is already helming the brand and we sure are glad there’s sustainability
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with this dish. The queue is a constant feature at the stall but be patient – it is worth the wait. This family has been around the world on many international food shows and events including Singapore Day in a few countries. They were also featured in a Unesco Hawker Culture video created to shore up support for Singapore’s bid for the Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2019.
Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle
Blk 466 Crawford Lane #01-12, Tai Hwa Eating House (Map) 9.30am – 8.30pm Mon
(1 st & 3 rd Mon of each month)
They are regarded as the first icons of bak chor mee- a soupy minced pork noodle dish with a dry sambal rendition (the more popular version) that is lifted with black vinegar, dumplings, meatballs and a flotilla of toppings. They are the champs in the World Street Food Award by Makansutra. Their decades old original Singapore hawker dish is done with mee pok (local fettuccine) or mee kia (local angel hair pasta) and is tossed in a secret sambal sauce, with shots of soy sauce, lard and enlivened with eye-squinting black vinegar. The result is a tingling and salivating noodle dish with all those topping with hints of teepo bits (smoked and sundried crispy sole fish bones). The queue for an order here is, on average, 45minutes unless there’s a sudden surge. The owner’s brother also has an award- winning stall in Chinatown that is equally appealing for bak chor mee fans.
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Jin Xi Lai (Mui Siong) Minced Meat Noodle 638 Veerasamy Rd, Yi He Eating House (Map) 7.30am – 2pm Wed
You only liver once. This minced meat noodle stall is famous and rightly so, for the uber soft, chunky and fresh slices of liver they put in the noodles soup that comes with the noodles. It has slices of soft pork, fish cake, minced meat floating atop, fish ball (store bought) and heavenly little chunks of quick blanched liver. The softness, unlike other, holds and it's still moreish in the mouth (if you like liver, that is) even after 15 mins. But don't waste time, eat it when it served. The dry version noodles are not what you come for. Go for the soup version (rich and meaty) and make that with an extra order of the liver. They now have branches around the city, but this flagship stall is where we head to for that livery sensation ever so often.
No. 25 Minced Meat Noodle 161 Bukit Merah Central, #01-3749 (Map) 8am to 2pm Sun
There are a few standouts here. Firstly, their vinegared sambal is bold and comes with the appropriate heat and consumes the aldente noodles very nicely. Then, the use of top grade roasted teepo crisp (smoked dried flounder bones) is again appropriate and generous, found as a topping and blended in the soup. Their soup does not come clear like many of their peers, but a rich, cloudy and mineral laden broth, densely savoury with fish dumpling (her kiow), soft slices of pork and liver.
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Punggol Noodles
105 Hougang Ave 1 #02-24, Hainanese Village Ctr (Map) 7am – 12.30pm
Mon & Fri
This is a one-armed street food wizard. He and his wife are at the stall by 3am each morning, preparing all the mise en place and side dishes aside from frying up the chilli sambal. By about 4.30am, the huge pail of minced pork with a bunch of spices is ready to be hand pressed, one by one, into meatballs. He does up to 1000 balls each day and get this… with only one hand as he lost one to an accident years ago. That pork ball is so juicy and resilient that many buy them in bulk just to cook at home. Observe him when he cooks – he is deft and skilful and puts fully abled folks to shame. The noodles are softly al dente, and the sambal is not overly spicy as good bak chor mee sambals are wont to be.
Shu Heng Bi Tai Mak 226H Ang Mo Kio Street 22, #01-25 Kebun Bahru Mkt & Hawker Ctr (Map) Mon – Sun: 7.00am – 12.00pm Tue
One of the rare mee tai mak or rat tail (rice) noodle specialists in Singapore. Shu Heng offers two types of servings – a starchy gravy version and a dry one. The starchy gravy version called Johor Bi Tai Mak at Shu Heng compares well with those across the Causeway. The spongy chewy mee tai mak are smothered with minced pork, mushroom and a savoury starchy sauce with tung chai (preserved cabbage). Their dry version is equally popular. The mee tai mak are topped with a fried minced pork and mushroom combo that packs robust, savoury umami flavour. Chili and vinegar lend some heat and sourish tang to make the concoction brimming with oomph... and there’s more, lard makes a strong presence in the bowl. The queue is long especially on weekends as more Johoreans and Singaporeans who scour Johor for the best eats get to know where to get their Johor mee tai mak fix.
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Teochew Kway Tiao Mee 91 Whampoa Dr #01-07, Whampoa Mkt & Food Ctr (Map) 5.30am – 10.30am
Mon, Fri, Sat & Sun
There’s bak chor mee, mee poh tah and Teochew mee, all culinary gifts the Teochews showered onto this delicious land of ours. Their mee kia and mee poh sell out so fast each morning that they have a prepared sign saying “mee pok and mee kia sold out” that appears by about 9am. The soup version, that has a flotsam and jetsam of minced pork and fats sitting in the broth, comes nicely sweet and is brewed with prawn shells (you can see it simmering in the soup pot). The toppings of fresh shrimps, fish balls (albeit smaller than usual), greens, fish cakes and fried shallots are so comforting. I like their dry version and do ask for a shot of black vinegar over the dry sambal chilli version. .
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Bak Kut The (Pork Ribs Soup) (PORK RIBS SOUP)
Photo taken by Makansutra
This popular pork rib soup comes in two different versions, the Chinese Teochew and Hokkien style. The former where the pork ribs are boiled in a peppery and garlicky broth, whereas the latter is darker in colour, spiked with herbs and soy sauce. It is usually served with rice can accompaniment like you tiao (dough fritters) and stewed salted mustard leaves.
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Ah Hak Bak Kut Teh 395 Balestier Road Kai Juan Coffeeshop (Map) Mon – Sat: 6.30am – 12.30am Sun: 7am – 4pm
This is a very humble corner coffeeshop stall offering this peppery style Bak Kut Teh in a street synonymous for this dish. Many competitors abound but they hold their own. Theirs come more gently, and with a less heady blast of pepper which hits the spot for many, especially, nighttime diners. Come here and stick to a bowl of this pork ribs broth, some braised salted vegetables and dough fritter sticks (yu tiao). The other soy braised items did not do it for us.
Balestier Bak Kut Teh 365 Balestier Rd and Gluttons Bay(Map) https://balestierbakkutteh.com/ 24 Hours Daily
Jonathan Yap, at the ripe young age of 28, knew he wanted to take over the family business when his father passed on about 3 years before. He grew up pottering around the kopitiam as a kid helper back in the day. Their version feels very potent, a bold smash of pepperiness balanced by porkiness calmed with some barely noticeable herbs “to mask the porkiness”, he says. They also add "teck jia" or bamboo sugar cane to the broth to calm all the savoury and bold pepperiness. Their loong ku (prime rib) version is the de rigueur order here. They now have a more comfortable (air-conditioned) outlet just beside the original old-school corner al fresco kopitiam outlet, so you have a choice. Order the full monty with braised salted vegetable, stewed pig tail, spinach, and a bowl of soft you tiao (dough fritters) to dunk in the soup, then fill up with some rice and wash it down with a freshly tableside- brewed pot of kung fu Chinese tea.
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Hong Ji Claypot Herbal Bak Kut Teh 19 Marsiling Lane, #01-329 (Map) 7am – 9pm Daily
This is a Malaysian style herbal claypot version and they come simmering hot. The herbs used lend just a gently sweet nod to the dark broth with cut up chunks of soft pork ribs. You'll find taupok (puff tofu), mushrooms and lettuce in an order. They also offer braised trotters and even pig intestines and of course yu tiao (dough fritters) plus stewed bean skin sticks. They have a few outlets throughout the city, but this is where we did the litmus test.
(Click to watch video)
Hua Xing Bak Kut Teh Blk 347 Jurong East Ave 1, #01-171 Yuhua Place Mkt & Food Ctr (Map) Tue – Sun: 8.30am – 2.00pm Mon
Hua Xing is a two-unit hawker centre stall run by second generation boss, Ah Yeow over 2 decades ago. The old customers, their children and grandchildren of Ah Yeow's father who founded the stall over 40 years ago are still coming for it. The dish has a brownish broth
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which may fool you to think it is Malaysian style, but it is as Teochew Singapore as it comes – all garlicky and boldly peppery, with a dash of soy sauce. The best cut is their prime loin rib known as "dragon bone" with a good balance of lean meat and fat. Tender and juicy, we can taste the sweetness of fresh pork. Do not miss Hua Xing's range Teochew style steamed fish with preserved vegetables, ginger, tomato, etc and a strip of pork fat that add sweetness and smooth out all the flavours, from snapper to garoupa. A perfect blend of salty, sweet and a bit of sour to complement the sweetness of fresh fish. They also have a sweet sourish gently spicy asam Ikan Merah fish head worth a try. Hand picks the fish from the fridge at the stall with the help of the lady boss. Don't just come for great bak kut teh, get the full works with steamed fish, asam fish and indulge in their braised pork trotter, intestines and more.
Joo Siah Bak Koot Teh Blk 349 Jurong East Ave 1 #01-1215 (Map) https://joosiahbkt.oddle.me/en_SG/ Tue - Sat: 8am – 7.15pm, Sun: 8am – 3.30pm Mon
The family that runs this stall is related to the original Rong Chen Bak Kut The folks in Sin Ming. But this version has one edge- it is a yard more peppery and done with the bold local Jurong palate in mind. The heartland folks in the area are used to and love the peppery sting in the broth. Order the "loong koo" or dragon ribs and you'll get a soft juicy "flintstone" style ribs sitting in your broth. All is ready to be paired with the rice, extra orders of braised salted vegetables, dough fritters and even braised dark soy sauce trotters. A second generation, Ryan Chua now helms this stall and is keeping the faith.
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Outram Park Ya Hua Rou Gu Cha
7 Keppel Rd #01-05/07 (Map) https://yahuabakkutteh.com.sg/ Tue – Sun: 6.30am - 11pm Mon
The Gwee family owners used to learn the craft from the kitchens of Ng Ah Sio when they were the most popular bak kut the stall around back in the day. Now they hold their own. The diligent touch of pepper in the porky broth is very well balanced. The bones used to cook the broth is done till it almost disintegrates and the results shows. The touch of garlic is well managed in the brew and the ribs are fall off bone soft- you can choose slightly fatter (go for it) or leaner cuts (just tell them). They have a whole host of Teochew side dishes including steam fishes and stir fries but come here for the main act- bak kut teh, braised salted mustard greens and some braised peanuts with a bowl of rice.
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Bak Kwa (Barbecued Meat Slices) (BARBECUED MEAT SLICES)
Photo taken by Makansutra
Sweet and savoury barbecued pork jerky is a must-have during Lunar New Year. While this snack is originally from Fujian, many Singaporean and Malaysian claim it as a favourite. It is commonly made with minced or sliced pork, marinated with soy sauce and sugar. Some layer it with a touch of aromatics, herbs or even fruits like pineapple to lend an extra layer of flavour. It is smoked then barbecued over charcoal fire to get the rich bbq flavour.
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Bee Cheng Hiang
1359 Serangoon Rd (Map) https://www.beechenghiang.com.sg/ 11am – 10pm Daily
This is arguably Singapore’s most successful brand of Bak Kwa or honeyed pork jerky. They have numerous outlets, and the brand has grown over the years with extra items and varieties, like individually shrink-wrapped packs (great for tourists) and a sinful bacon version. The jerky is roasty enough and if you get them off the charcoal wood grill, they are a delight to tear into. The balance of sweet, salty and savoury with a gentle bite to the texture is alluring. This is also one of the most popular food gift packs travellers buy when leaving the country. They are considered a national culinary brand of sorts and proudly carries the Singapore flag wherever they go.
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Jia Hui BBQ Blk 16 Bedok South Rd #01-40, Bedok South Mkt & Food Ctr (Map) 10am – 9.30pm Mon & Tue
For a self-taught hawker who hawked a host of goodies since a kid, Mr Chang Kay Hui may have found his calling over a grill. His bak kwa has a very artisanal edge – it does not feel like the same-ol'-same-ol’ stuff you get from the all too familiar brands. He smokes the meat, framed in a meat spreader high over his grill, for 8 hours each day before it is grilled the next day. His slices come thicker and very soft and roasty, plus he offers a bacon version that is extremely sinful, and get this, he is currently the only hawker offering Iberico pork bak kwa – this one takes the cake. You can feel the luxurious pork with a decent percentage of fat in each bite… it’s like a sin you did not regret committing. His wife Yiling helps him, along with their son.
(Click to watch video)
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Kim Hock Seng Bak Kwa 570 Geylang Road (Map) 11am – 9pm
The boss owner, Mr Ong Geok Hoo was a former national body building champ. You can sort of still make that out in this septuagenarian (in his 70s). check out the proud old newspaper cuttings he hangs up on the walls. He still makes the bak kwa in the back of this shop and it comes out in batches- fresh, chunky and still employs an old school recipe, not laden with fancy meats or laced with fruits or whatnot. His meats are sliced and not minced, and it comes soft to the bite, sweet, savoury and moreish old fashion stuff. He has been at it for over half a century now and we don't know how much longer this strongman can hang on to and lift this legacy up, as there is very little interest with a younger generation to continue in this back breaking culinary craft. Go for some of his mega sins- the bacon bak kwa chunks- you've been warned.
Low Seng Kim
Blk 69 Geylang Bahru #01-53, Geylang Bahru Mkt & Food Ctr (Map) 6am – 2pm Mon
His main act is mee siam, but we noticed the unimaginatively packed stack of bak kwa lying atop his display shelf. It comes in torn bite sized bits and you just buy that zip-lock pack of it, open and tear in. It comes just sweet enough but not overly so. The minced pork is rendered a little rougher and is shows up in the texture but surprisingly, it is soft to the bite. You don't need to "fight" it like a tough jerky. Mr Lau makes them in a friend's factory and you can tell this does not reek of the usual, same ol, same ol mass produced recipe. It has an honest own made touch to it. This is actually a small chain outlet and they do produce consistent stuff.
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Lim Chee Guan
203 New Bridge Rd (Map) https://www.limcheeguan.com.sg/ 9am – 10pm Daily
They are famous for their yearly kilometre-long queues during Chinese New Year, and they limit how much one can buy then. The simple reason – it’s the way they barbeque those meats (which comes from a supplier). It has such a roasty aroma; grilled nicely through and well caramelised. The cuts are not overly thick, and it is easy to chew in. The use of sugar and fish sauce as a base marinade (with a host of additional secret ingredient touches) makes this one very moreish. There's also the addictive bacon and chilli version (if you like it with some non-traditional heat in the meat). They offer a chicken and even a fish version (only for those who hate pork!). They have a few outlets, but the original flagship action resides in this address. Word of advice – go during off Chinese New Year season as the wait can be up to 5 hours at least. You've been warned!
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Ban Mian (Handmade Noodles with Soup) (HANDMADE NOODLES WITH SOUP)
Photo taken by Makansutra
This simple comforting bowl of handmade egg noodles (often with minced meat, prawns, fish and boxthorn leaves) is served in anchovy soup. The pasta comes in different forms- hand-torn pieces or squares, flat fettucini style, or regular spaghetti versions. It is comfort food of sorts and many hawkers also offer a dry, sambal laced version and top it with an onsen egg. It is originally a Hakka Chinese staple but it has evolved over the years especially with the dry sambal recipes.
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China Whampoa Noodles Blk 91 Whampoa Dr #01-24, Whampoa Mkt & Food Ctr (Map) 7am – 2pm Mon
They have been at it for over two decades and have expanded with a few outlets, but boss says they have since closed it all down and are back at this flagship hawker outlet where it humbly began. He makes his own ban mian or pasta sheets and noodles (many just order from suppliers) and that's the first plus. His stock is laden with the aroma and flavours of pork bone and ikan bilis (dried anchovy) stock- the second plus. They top each order with a spoonful of crispy briny ikan bilis that lifts each bowl of ban mian. The chilli is vintage heartland style- leaves you gasping for air if you let it rip, so go easy on it. Fancy toppings lend decadence to this meal- like jumbo prawns, mince meat balls, abalone clams, sliced fish, etc..and if you order the dry chilli version, ask for a onsen egg over it, then swirl it to smoothen the noodles and calm the chilli sauce. It is divine. We still recommend this flagship outlet.
(Click to watch video)
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L32 Handmade Noodles 558 Geylang Rd (Map) 11.30am – 9pm Mon
There's always a wait time in this packed coffeeshop crammed with patient customers awaiting their orders. The huge pot of the all-important stock is simmering all day long and the ikan bilis (dried anchovies) and pork bone stock is evident with each slurp. The noodles are soft and smooth and absorb the broth well. The toppings are varied, from prawns, chicken, minced pork balls, clams to fish slices. You choose what you want or take them all! They also top the dry chilli version (not overly spicy) with an oozy onsen egg, and they serve the ingredients separately in an egg drop soup. Just toss the noodles, mess it up and slurp it in. They don't mass produce in the kitchen, just one pot for each order to maintain consistency, hence the excruciating wait of up to 30 minutes at peak hours. We love the limey and garlicky chilli sauce provided; just dip the toppings in and enjoy the tangy spicy lift it lends to the whole sensation.
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Top 1 Home Made Noodle 144 Upper Bukit Timah Rd #04-44, Beauty World Ctr (Map) 10.30am – 7pm Wed
The dry version in this charming old fashioned rooftop hawker centre stall is done with a blended thick soy sauce that leans a little on the sweet side of savoury. But when you spoon in some of their special chilli sauce, the heavens open and the wonders are revealed. Their noodle is aldente and some like it so, very much like pasta. One of their best seller is the Tom Yum version, not overly spicy nor too sour, but just balanced with a slight spicy and tangy kick. They also offer a Szechuan Mala rendition but that kills every subtle flavour buried in the noodles and ingredients. There are a few toppings to choose from- prawns, meatballs, fish slices and even fish maw. The soup version comes with a stock patiently brewed with the classic ingredients- pork bones and ikan bilis (dried anchovies).
(Click to watch video)
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Bebek Goreng GORENG
Photo taken by Makansutra
An Indonesian dish of fried or grilled duck, that’s marinated in a host of spices. It is served over a bed of rice with a sambal and some greens like cucumber.
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Bebek Goreng Pak Ndut 304 Orchard Rd #01-42, Lucky Plaza (Map) https://bebekgorengpakndut.com.sg/ 11am – 10pm Daily
If you like a touch of gaminess in a beautifully fried crispy duck, then this is the one, especially with their soft Indonesian rice. And with a dollop of their bali style, pounded sambal, its jackpot. This place lures the regulars and many Indonesian missing home food. The Bebek or duck comes crispy outside and they drop a ladle full of crispy batter bits over it. Munch in and you'll fell the soft moistness inside-they steam or boil the duck before they fry it just for texture on the outside. It comes with tempeh (fermented soybean cake) and tauhu, fried tofu, so nicely matched. Ask for extra types of sambal, with a bright smile, and up to 5 types may come your way- from sambal hijau (green chiili sambal), Bali sambal mata, sambal terasi (belacan) and even sweet kicap sambal.
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